JARDA CERVENKA
How I Came to the Feast
The cause of my distraction is prosperity. It is everywhere around me. At
some times it tranquilizes me to the extent of sleep-walking. It slows my
movements as if they were filmed by a slow-motion camera.
The abundance, the affluence.
My employer, Universitat Giessen, has been endowed well, almost famously,
even through recent times of leaner budgets, and therefore my lab lacks
nothing. I can look forward to working, when I get up in the morning, in
air conditioned to a balmy 21 degree Centigrade, open the refrigerator and
remove lowfat milk and orange juice at 5 degrees Centigrade, and pour the
milk over American cereal supplemented with enough fiber, vitamins, and
trace minerals to "satisfy the recommended daily dosages." Every
day I sin with a cup of freshly ground coffee, and off I go on my perfect
machine, a titanium 21-speed mountain bicycle, on the paved bike-path leading
safely to the University. I paddle between the alleys of chestnut trees
and through a park past the Goethe statue surrounded by flower beds, uphill
between villas with rock gardens in bloom and a show of geraniums under
each window. Everywhere I look, there is a tranquility and wellbeing. Some
people I meet smile at me; some greet me with a waving hand--civility prevails.
It is enjoyed, but without exuberation.
In a way one could be proud, being from Giessen in Bavaria, and most of
the inhabitants are. I hasten to say that I appreciate it too; I do, indeed!
But.... My problem could be diagnosed as a recurring restlessness, as the
urge to disappear to some malarian hole at the edge of a jungle, with sauna-like
heat and humidity, about as healthy as a hospital sewer, under a leaden
sky that pours five meters of water per year on the palm-fronded roofs of
sorry shacks sticking out of a permanent mudpit. Always, when I have managed
to land in a defeated territory like that, I have felt such exhilation and
happiness that a conventional judge would assume I was wallowing on a topless
beach in a Club Med with a "Viper Key" cocktail in my left hand
and an incarnation of Brigitte Bardot supported by my right. And that, exactly,
was the state of mind I attained trotting down the jungle path from the
hills of the Golden Triangle, on th Thailand side.
The forest was like a botanical garden, enchanted by singing and shrieking
birds, butterflies the size of swallows, and beautiful beetles of bizarre
shapes, the colors of gems. I stopped often, rested, and observed this curious
world, the sweat and thirst only enhancing my feeling of adventure and,
therefore, my exaltation. It was later in the day when I began tripping
over the exposed roots because I'd lost concentration. My eyes were still
watching the wet laterite clay of the trail, but my brain had started to
turn over the kaleidoscope of images recorded during the past few days I'd
spent up in the hills.
(The Lisu people grow the poppies and harvest them for the Karen people.
They live in utter misery: diseased, scrambling for meager grub to survive.
The opium dow is prepared by Karen tribesmen, who own the fields,
tilled by the Lisu for almost nothing. The opium is bought then from the
Karen by a solitary Hmong, who is ripping off the Karen expertly. The Hmong
transfers the opium to a Chinese, down in Chiang Mai, who roars with laughter
at the profit he's made from ripping off the Hmong. The stuff goes to a
Thai military man who, of course, rips off the Chinese. And the Thai officer
has further connections to the villains who make heroin from the raw opium.
And the further way of heroin...that is a story too dangerous to know.)
I woke up from my ruminations to a strange noise coming from everywhere
around me. It was an uniformly susurrant shshsh. I stopped.
I was not in the botanical riot of the jungle any more but surrounded by
a forest of slender trees of equal size, standing in neat rows about ten
feet apart, obviously planted by man. The sound was coming from the tops
of the trees, which looked like skeletons, almost devoid of leaves. Puzzled,
I resumed walking and turned a bend in the path.
I almost ran into him, a white man standing there motionless, looking at
me. He did not seem to be surprised; he'd probably heard me coming. My first
impression of him was his tallness, and the visor on his head. He must have
been six-foot-six, in a bleached-out shirt with a Hawaiian design, shorts,
and sandals. He had a leather visor on his head with a narrow shield as
long as I have ever seen. It was a well-worn thing; sweat had made patterns
on the shield resembling a horizon of mountain ridges. The wearer did not
allow any frivolous tilt to it--the shield was pointing straight ahead,
like a raven's beak, at me.
"Hi." I used the American greeting, and smiled.
"Hi."
I stopped, took my eyes off him, and pointed at the tops of the trees. "What
a strange noise!" I said in English.
"Yeah, caterpillars." By his accept, he was an American.
"Caterpillars?"
"Yes. The destiny of monocultures in the tropics," he said. I
must have looked puzzled. "Yeah, they are eating the leaves of those
teaks. They're almost finished. That is what you hear."
"Hah!"
"When millions of those microscopic jaws gnaw--one can hear it. I wonder
how many millions we hear," he said. "Very interesting."
I extended my hand: "Lothar Burgdorf. How do you do?"
"I am Rick Gorlinski." He grasped my hand firmly. Rick was built
quite impressively, sturdily; lanky tall, his spare movements gave the impression
of power and speed, that his sinews held everything together tightly. His
skin was sallow but darkened evenly, as goes with long stays in the tropics.
His skin was sallow but darkened evenly, as goes with long stays in the
tropics. He had not been suntanned on a beach. His unruly hair, of no particular
color, was bleached rusty at the ends. One could see he was not in the custom
of smiling readily; a suggestion of scorn was carved around his lips. His
poked-in cheeks added to his stern look, quite in contrast to the pleasant,
bright blue eyes flanking the beaked nose of impressive dimensions.
We walked together down to town, because he also was staying in Chiang Mai.
Somehow, at first, his appearance made me cautious, and so I avoided small
talk (to which I have an unfortunate affinity), at the expense of long silences.
Slowly, our exchanges took the form of conversation. I learned that we were
visiting the same mountain tribes of the Golden Triangle, but we did not
go deeper into it. Maybe later, if we could trust each other a little
more, I thought.
His home was San Francisco, which he had left almost two years ago. He had
traveled through India to China, through the Philippines to Malaysia, before
he arrived here in Thailand--for how long, he did not know. It was his rule
to globetrot without rules, with one exception. Every morning, before he
would set out on his excursions, he studied the local language. Later, it
impressed me to hear him ordering our food in Thai and being understood.
Thai sounds to a Western ear like gurgling, with lots of krch-chrch, and
it pours out like an uninterrupted stream over sharp rocks.
From the first village, we were lucky to catch a bus to Chiang Mai. Darkness
came with a near-equatorial rapidity at the time we arrived, and we entered
the first lighted eatery at the outskirts of town. I ordered just a salad,
since my German palate was sick of the spice that flavored everything here.
Was it cilantro? Lemon grass? Fish sauce? It seemed to be in every dish
I had eaten during the three weeks of my stay. And I did not want any more.
Lately, I had become preoccupied with dreams about fresh rye bread with
a crust, just butter spread on it, a glass of cold milk, potatoes sprinkled
with chopped parsley-plain potatoes, the simplest. Rick seemed to enjoy
the thick chicken soup with some leafy vegetable that emanated the smell
of THAT thing. He seemed more relaxed after the soup, and we talked about
his travels.
Then I told him about my interest in liver cancer and about my research
in the University Hospital, here. I was collecting biopsies of tumors and
setting them up in tissue cultures, forcing the cancerous cells to grow
in flasks. Rick seemed interested in my project and asked many questions
that revealed a surprising knowledge of the malignant process. Surprising,
because he was a computer specialist by trade. We talked about remissions
and prospects for treatment of cancer in the future, about mortality. Mortality?
"Sometimes death is okay, I think. Sometimes it isn't," he declared.
"Why do you say it is okay?"
"Not long ago, a good friend of mine died, you see. He fell asleep
during some meeting. They pulled the chair out from under him, for fun.
But he was already dead when he slumped to the floor. The 'falling asleep'
was a massive heart attack," Rick told me, his gaze blank, seeing his
friend, perhaps. "That is an 'okay' death, I think. You see, for himself
he did not die. Only for others: for friends, family. Not for himself."
"But he died. That is the sad fact!"
"Yes, but the last thing on his consciousness, the very last, was perhaps
a vision of a shapely female, a pile of great food, or the smile of his
kid. Isn't that what people visualize during meetings? So death, dying,
did not enter his mind, even in the last second of his life--and then there
were no thoughts any more."
"I understand--death without dying, siimply an end of existence. Comfortable,
great stuff! And it should be like that for people of any age--but the hitch
is that for those who remain, for family, friends, the age of the dead one
means much. That is the bad part," I said.
"I was thinking about that. One can draw a 'curve of ruin,' so to speak,
a curve of the degree of devastation for those who remain. It might be relatively
low at birth, rising and rising, then descending down again at old age.
Would it make sense, you think?" He asked himself more than me, and
continued: "I am Jewish, Lothar, so I check in some old books from
a rabbi, once. But I couldn't find anything explicit, blunt enough about
this curve."
"Jewish or Catholic, no matter; ethnicists, they would struggle with
such a curve, I imagine. I think it would almost imply that over the age
of, say, a hundred and under the age of one day, or before birth even, the
curve would approach, or reach, zero. On both ends of your curve, death
would mean nothing, no grief. How about that, then?"
"The sanctity of life! A sacrosanct concept--or a folly of Western
man?" Rick raised his hand. He had a pleasant smile, a little sad though.
I forced a laugh, thinking that we were deviating too far from anything
resembling a pleasant discourse over dinner. "By the way," I said,
"did you notice that girl who just came in?"
"I noticed her," Rick said dismissively, still in thought. "You
know that the Eskimos, Inuit, have solved all this, in old times. They had
it all figured out, what different values life has at which ages...."
I ordered another Tsing Tao, Chinese beer, which tastes as bad as Miller
Light--doesn't even vaguely resemble the brew at home in Bavaria. "Why
the hell do we have to talk about death, Rick, with waitresses around like
the one serving the back tables. Why? Have a beer," I said.
"Because...You know why?" He sighed and did not look very happy,
at that moment. "I have been bumming around Asia for two years, I told
you. That's why." I did not understand the connection. He topped out
glasses, leaned back, and started to unbutton his shirt, from the top. I
looked around, but nobody seemed to be paying much attention to us.
He undid the last button and opened the shirt so that his chest and belly
showed. He had the suntan-distribution of a peasant: the darkness of his
neck descended in a V-like triangle pointing to his chest-bone. The rest
of his body was white. An enormous scar ran down from the edge of his rib-cage,
turned sharply across his belly, and disappeared sideways under the flap
of his shirt, at least a half a foot long, down, and maybe a foot across.
"What happened?"
"Melanoma, my friend. My brother, he's a surgeon in Tucson, he took
it out two years ago." Rick watched my reaction. "My dad is a
doctor, too. They couldn't guarantee anything--no way to know about metastases,
about the risk that it will come back; nothing. Just the usual: let us hope."
He paused, looked at the scar and then at me. "That was not good enough
for me, so I sold everything and went to India and decided to travel till
I'd either spent all the dough or had a relapse--and that would be it."
His mouth smiled, but his eyes did not.
"But you look great; you are in great shape," I said.
"Well, I don't know. Can't sleep well for over a week now--I worry.
Look here." He pointed at the scar. "See it? You are a cancer
man, aren't you?"
Right in the middle of the scar there was an elevated lesion covered with
a scab, a little wet with lymph. It was surrounded by a pink halo. It was
not too big, just about a couple of centimeters or smaller. "They told
me in Tucson to watch for something like this." He started to button
up the shirt. "It doesn't heal; seeps a little lymph, doesn't hurt,
and it crusts. It ain't pigmented, though. But they said it need not to
be."
"How long have you had it?"
"It's been about ten days since I noticed that."
Let's have another beer, what do you say?" I suggested, and Rick called
the waitress over, the uglier one. "I think I can help you, Rick. You
are in luck. At least I hope you are in luck."
I told him that, by coincidence, my friend in the Hospital, a Thai surgeon,
had spent five years in Germany studying and operating on skin cancers,
and melanomas are his special interest. He might be the number one melanoma
expert in all of Thailand. Great experience; nice guy, too. I knew he would
be in the Outpatient Clinic tomorrow. So we would meet at the Hospital in
the morning, and I would arrange for Rick to be seen by my friend. First
thing tomorrow.
I arrived at the Hospital half an hour before my rendezvous with Rick, to
set up his exam with the surgeon. Rick was already pacing in front of the
entrance. He looked different without his visor, his hair combed, his clean
khaki shirt crumpled a little, and in fancy cotton pants. He was tense but
tried his smile on me; the effort to behave casually showed. I made the
arrangements at the Clinic (there would be no charge), came out, and told
Rick to go straight to the Clinic. I'd come back to meet him in front of
the gate in an hour. I had to attend to some business in the Lab, I told
him, which was not true.
"It will be all right, man," I said, doubting it, of course; melanoma
is a killer because of its rapid metastases. Everybody knows that. I went
to the open-air Hospital Cafeteria, drank two cups, and fought the thought
of starting to smoke again. I watched passing girls and the morning acrobatics
of butterflies over the clusia bushes around. I did not identify the butterflies
and did not register the proportions of the girls, paying true attention
only to the arms of my watch which moved like an injured snail.
Even before the hour had passed, I went to the entrance of the hospital.
Rick was just coming out. When he saw me, he walked to meet me, slowly.
In that instant I knew--his face was changed so much that he only vaguely
resembled the person I'd left an hour ago; only his nose was the same. "So,
how was it?" I asked, to break the silence. But he just took my hand
and shook it as if we were old friends who were meeting each other for the
first time after years. He nodded his head and held my hand. Then his face
erupted into an enormous smile.
"Okay, let's go and get a morning Tsing Tao. I know a place near the
market where they keep it pretty cold," I said. We took a short cut,
trudging through a construction site, alongside a Buddhist wat in ruins;
crossed the canal, and he told me.
"Lothar, it was an insect bite. An infected insect bite! The doctor
took a scraping, checked it under the microscope right there."
"I'll be damned," I said.
"Great guy, your friend. It is absolutely certain; no need for a biopsy,
even. Sonovabitch, he laughed at me. I am going to buy him a bottle of the
best stuff I can find here. The best!"
We got our beers in the shade of a sprawling bougainvillea vine that covered
all of the terrace of the "Happy Dragon," and Rick talked about
his plans. When he went back home to California, he would look for a teaching
job, some private college out in a small town, in the hills. Artificial
Intelligence, that's what he would get into; there is a future in it. And
being an old computer hacker would help him, too. And hell, he might even
get married. We paid.
"Lothar, how about at seven, tonight? Do you know the Austrian place?"
"Austrian? Like--Austria?"
"Good, you don't know it. Then I have a surprise for you, mi amigo.
Good," he said, beaming. He still could not get the grin off his face.
Neither could I.
At seven-zero-zero, on the nose, Rick appeared in the lobby of my hotel.
(I love when people come on time. It must be the German in me.) In olve
slacks, a black shirt, and an off-white cotton parka over it, he looked
twice the size of the people around him. I had my white jacket and shirt
with an ascot--almost too colonial, too Graham Green, I thought. But we
were terrific, fabulously handsome intelligent faces, in tremendous esprit
de corps. We kept our posture straight and paced with military deliberation,
as if awarded medals.
I thought about some of my culinary adventures of the past. There was the
breakfast of pelagic palo-palo worms in Western Samoa, the sweet and sour
pig's Fallopian tubes with stir-fried ovaries in Taipei, the marinated sea
cucumber-holothuria in the Peng-Hu Islands of the South China Sea. I recalled
the fish, cooked for twenty-four hours, in Chinatown in Yokohama. But tonight
it would be different--it would be the good old times, the old Viennese
times!
The last droves of fruit-bats were passing low over our heads on their way
to night-feeding haunts, shitting happily, and I worried about my jacket.
But only for a moment, since my single-minded desire for food had overtaken
my imagination. I could not believe that nobody had told me about "Grinzing,"
the Austrian restaurant, which was only a few blocks from my hotel. Surrounded
by a bamboo-fringed tropical garden, it stood on stilts at least three meters
tall. The structure was designed in the traditional Thai style, with a broad
verandah encircling the house on all sides. Teak railings, teak paneling
and pillars, teak ceilings--all were bathed in the balmy stream of air coming
down from the hills for the night. The only obvious Austrian feature was
a snowy damask tablecloth over each table, and the vase on it. Blossoms
of hibiscus, rosa sinensis, elevated the class of the arrangement.
Before we'd even found a table, Rick announced, with mock formality, that
he considered this evening a celebration and that everything was to be on
him. How could I have objected? The menu read like a fairytale I knew would
come true. And it did--on imitation Meissen porcelain plates, sprawling
over the rim, the Viernerschnitzel of my youth. The thinly pounded breaded
veal was fried to perfect consistency by a Thai hand, undoubtedly guided
by the frowning ghost of my grandmother (let the gods endow her with eternal
glory). It came with steaming golden potatoes sprinkled with melted butter
and finely chopped parsley.
The cold cucumber salad, Gurkensalat, was of the optimal pH (acidity) and
salinity, as I have known it from home. Yes, G.B. Shaw understood: "There
is no love sincerer than the love of food." I loved it so sincerely
when the dessert arrived. It was the world famous Sacher Torte, indistinguishable
from the original pride of Kortner Strasse, in Vienna. I had arrived in
heaven, finally.
The majordomo, Herr Karl Prochaska himself, came to discuss the wine. He
apologized for the limited selection from the wine cellar, but there was
no agony in deciding about the vintage of an Austrian riesling, since all
are delicious with food, be it in the tropics or an Alpine chalet. He was
a balding, short fellow of about fifty, with a swift smile, blotches on
his forehead attesting to the might of the equatorial sun, with a Burgundy-tinted
bulb of a nose, suggesting expertise in wines. Rick told me that Prochaska
had married the Beauty Queen of Chiang Mai and stayed here, so she could
be close to her relatives and would not face. It was a festive evening,
and before it was over even Rick had noticed the angelic waitresses who
fluttered around in gossamer Thai silks as if suspended in the evening breeze,
jasmine blossoms in their hair and smiles reserved only for us, we were
certain.
So, that is how I came to a feast--and how I made a friend for years to
come.